Power failures follow storms, freezes, floods, and wildfire smoke. As a restoration company owner I see the same pattern after every disaster. Homes sit dark. Fridges warm up. Sump pumps stop. Phones die. Choosing the right backup power changes the outcome. Some homes keep the lights on with a portable generator. Others rely on a portable power station. A growing number pair rooftop solar with a home battery. This guide compares generator vs portable power station vs solar battery backup for outages. It shows how to size for critical loads like a fridge, a sump pump, or a medical device. It explains carbon monoxide safety, transfer switches, fuel planning, maintenance, costs, and when to rent or buy. Use it to build a simple, safe plan that fits your home and budget.
Backup power options compared
Each option solves a different problem. A generator delivers the highest surge power. It keeps motor loads running for long outages if you have fuel and a safe connection. A portable power station gives quiet power with no exhaust. It suits short outages and electronics. A solar plus battery system brings automatic backup without fuel. It costs more up front yet offers silent long duration support when sized correctly.
A generator shines when you must start heavy loads like a well pump or a larger sump pump. The engine can handle surge current. Runtime can last as long as you can refuel. That strength comes with tradeoffs. A generator needs fuel storage, regular exercise runs, oil changes, and safe outdoor placement to avoid carbon monoxide. Review FEMA and CDC guidance before you buy or run one. FEMA warns to place portables outside at least twenty feet from the home with the exhaust pointed away from openings. NIST visuals often show twenty five feet as a safer target. You can read FEMA’s rules at FEMA generator safety, the CDC health facts at CDC generator CO facts, and a clear distance reminder from NIST.
A portable power station uses a lithium battery and an inverter. It runs quietly with zero carbon monoxide. It can sit indoors during use. Many models add a UPS feature that switches to battery when the grid fails. You can charge from a wall outlet, a car, solar panels, or even a generator. The limit is capacity and inverter size. It will not run a high power furnace blower or a large well pump for many hours unless you choose a very large unit or expand with extra batteries. You can review typical capabilities and UPS features in tech reviews at TechRadar and buyer overviews from EcoFlow.
Solar with a stationary home battery gives the cleanest backup experience. The system senses an outage and switches to battery in a fraction of a second. It keeps a critical load panel energized. If the sun comes out the battery refills. Operating costs stay low. The upfront cost sits above the other choices, though tax credits often help. Read current pricing ranges and incentive notes from SolarReviews.
One option does not fit every home. Think about the wattage of your critical loads, your outage length, your fuel access, and your tolerance for noise and maintenance. Then match that need to the right system.
Size critical loads
Start with a list. Put down every item that must stay on during an outage. A refrigerator. A sump pump. A well pump. A furnace blower for gas or oil heat. Wi Fi and phone chargers. Any medical device. Add lights in key rooms. Each item has two numbers. Running watts and starting watts. Motors such as pumps and fridges need more power for a few seconds when they start. That surge adds up.
Check each appliance nameplate. If the label shows amperage at a given voltage multiply the two to estimate watts. If the label is missing use a trusted chart. A typical fridge sits near four hundred running watts. Starting watts often fall near one thousand six hundred for a moment. A sump pump varies by horsepower. A third to a half horsepower unit can need a surge in the thousands. You can skim a practical overview at the Montana Association resource on choosing small scale backup power and reasoned pump wattage examples from independent guides. For a simple home example we can walk through a fridge, a sump pump, and small electronics.
Make a running total of every load that must run at the same time. Add the highest possible starting surge on top of that. Many installers add a margin of twenty to forty percent over that number. The cushion helps when motors start at once or if you want a little growth room later.
Walkthrough example. A fridge with four hundred running watts and one thousand six hundred starting watts. A sump pump with one thousand one hundred running watts and three thousand starting watts. Wi Fi and a few lights and chargers at three hundred watts. The running total sits near one thousand eight hundred watts. During pump start you briefly need extra. The pump already draws one thousand one hundred while running. The extra over its running draw is one thousand nine hundred. Add that to the running total for about three thousand seven hundred. A portable generator with at least five thousand rated watts gives breathing room. That size handles a furnace blower or a small window unit later if needed. Your home will differ. Use your own labels and speak with a licensed electrician before you buy.
The same math helps with portable power stations. Look at wattage of the inverter and the battery capacity in watt hours. Plan for the largest surge and then the runtime. More on runtime math later in this guide.
Safety for generators
Carbon monoxide kills quickly. Gasoline, diesel, and propane engines must run outside in the open air. Never place a generator in a garage, basement, sunroom, crawlspace, or near a door or window. FEMA recommends at least twenty feet of separation from the home. NIST visuals show twenty five feet with the exhaust turned away from openings. Add battery backed carbon monoxide alarms on each level and near sleeping areas. The CDC lists headache, dizziness, nausea, and confusion as early signs. If you feel any of those symptoms move outside into fresh air and call for help. Read FEMA guidance at FEMA generator safety and CDC tips at CDC CO safety.
Portable units often power individual appliances with cords. Use outdoor rated extension cords sized for the load. Keep cords away from water. Many storm responses happen in wet yards or basements. Ground fault protection helps reduce shock risk. The Electrical Safety Foundation gives practical connection guidance at ESFI.
Do not backfeed a home by plugging a generator into a wall outlet. That practice can energize utility lines unexpectedly. Linemen can die from a mistake like that. You also risk fire inside your home. A transfer switch or a listed interlock with a generator inlet is the proper method. Transfer equipment prevents power from feeding both directions at once. The Building America Solution Center explains safe back power options at PNNL BASC.
Transfer switches and interlocks
You have three common choices. A manual transfer switch. An automatic transfer switch. A listed interlock kit on the main panel with a generator inlet. Each option sends generator power to selected circuits while isolating the grid.
A manual transfer switch gives you a simple selector panel. You choose which circuits get power. The electrician installs it next to your main panel. Expect the switch equipment to sit in the range of a few hundred dollars. Labor, permits, and the generator inlet add to the total. Read a friendly overview at a dealer education post like the one at Gendealers, or browse general cost guides at HomeGuide.
An automatic transfer switch pairs with a standby generator. The switch senses an outage and starts the generator without human input. This is the standard for homes with medically dependent residents or for properties that must stay powered during storms. Equipment can cost in the thousands before labor and permits. Review National Fire Protection Association standards for emergency and standby systems at the NFPA 110 summary page on the ANSI portal. You will also want routine testing baked into your plan.
An interlock kit uses a sliding plate on the main panel that prevents the main breaker and the generator backfeed breaker from being on at the same time. The cost often looks lower than a dedicated transfer switch. Not every jurisdiction accepts interlocks. Ask your local inspector and hire a licensed electrician for any panel work. Some municipalities limit which panels can be interlocked. The goal is a safe, code compliant connection that will pass inspection.
Costs and budgets
Price ranges shift with region, supply, and time of year. The figures below give a useful budget frame for planning. Check current quotes in your area before you commit.
Portable generators. Compact inverter models for quiet use start in the hundreds. Larger open frame portables in the five to ten kilowatt bracket often land between one thousand and four thousand dollars. Whole home standby units start in the low thousands for the generator alone. Installed projects that include the pad, the automatic transfer switch, gas plumbing or a propane pad, permits, and full electrical work often reach from ten thousand to thirty five thousand dollars. Read recent breakdowns at HomeGuide and an electrician cost post like the one at Bryan Hindman Electric.
Solar battery backup. A single residential battery near twelve kilowatt hours commonly lands between eight thousand and twenty thousand dollars installed. Incentives lower the net cost in many states. The federal residential clean energy credit offsets thirty percent of eligible project costs for many households. Larger homes with whole home backup often stack two or more batteries with a higher capacity inverter. That raises system cost accordingly. See current context at SolarReviews and the broad ranges at HomeGuide.
Portable power stations. Small three hundred watt hour units sit near a few hundred dollars. Larger two thousand watt hour units and up run into the low thousands. Expandable systems from firms like EcoFlow, BLUETTI, and Goal Zero can reach two to four thousand dollars or more. Review examples at TechRadar and overview posts at EcoFlow.
Rentals. Renting helps when you need power for a few days only. Daily pricing for small portables often sits between thirty and one hundred dollars in many markets. Mid size units between five and twelve kilowatts can cost from seventy to four hundred dollars per day. Weekly and monthly rates drop the per day cost. Many rental houses add delivery, setup, and fuel fees. Check rates through aggregator pages like RentalForce or EquipmentRentalPros. Renting fits well for a temporary remediation project or a short outage after a storm.
Fuel and maintenance
Gasoline, diesel, and propane each have pros and limits. Gasoline sits at almost every station. It degrades in storage. Add fuel stabilizer or rotate stock on a schedule. Diesel holds energy well and suits larger engines. It needs attention to storage quality. Propane stores cleanly in sealed cylinders. It does not degrade in the same way. You can keep more on site with a larger tank if your local rules allow it. National standards such as NFPA 110 set expectations for emergency systems, testing, and fuel care. Read a policy level summary on the ANSI NFPA 110 page. Your local fire marshal or building department can add specific storage rules by location.
Portable generators need care across the year. A monthly exercise run helps keep the engine ready. Many makers recommend a thirty minute run under some load. Change oil based on hours or at least once a year. Replace air and fuel filters on the same schedule. Keep the battery charged on units with electric start. Clean the spark arrester. Check the cord condition. Log each task in a notebook so you do not miss anything during storm season. Generac’s support site lists practical intervals at Generac maintenance tips.
Batteries ask for less hands on care. Respect depth of discharge limits from the vendor. Keep firmware current on smart inverters. Lithium iron phosphate cells often offer more cycles than other chemistries. That benefit depends on the model. Follow the written warranty terms to preserve coverage. Tech sites and installers publish side by side comparisons to help you pick the right unit for your home.
Power for medical devices
When a family member depends on powered medical equipment you need automatic failover. A standby generator with an automatic transfer switch reduces the chance of interruption. The system senses the outage and starts on its own. Size the generator to the continuous wattage of the medical device plus any supporting gear such as refrigeration for medication. Test the system during daylight with support present.
Some homes choose a battery based UPS built to hospital or manufacturer guidance. Many portable power stations switch fast enough to support sensitive electronics. Test your exact device before you trust it. Confirm the runtime you need with a generous margin. Make a recharge plan for long outages. Speak with your medical supplier for model specific advice. Read standards background for emergency and standby systems at the NFPA 110 summary.
Rent or buy
Buy if you lose power often or if your home depends on continuous pumping or heating. A sump pump that stops can flood a basement in minutes during heavy rain. We recommend a sump pump with backup power on our preparedness checklists. Read more about the risk on our page about causes of water damage at sump pump backup power. Households with medical devices should also buy a permanent solution to cut outage risk.
Rent if you face a short outage or a temporary job on site. Restoration projects sometimes need a larger unit for a week to run dryers and dehumidifiers. Renting saves storage space and maintenance work. It also lets you match the size to the job. Get quotes early during storm season. Inventory sells out fast in those weeks.
Solar battery backup
Solar paired with a home battery gives calm backup during long outages. The battery inverter creates a protected circuit for critical loads. The system disconnects from the grid when the power fails. It keeps your critical circuits powered from the battery. When the sun returns the battery recharges. Many systems can prioritize loads based on state of charge. You can ride through multi day events if the array, battery size, and load planning match your needs.
Expect thoughtful design work. Most battery systems feed a subpanel that carries your must have circuits. Think fridge, sump pump, well pump, Wi Fi, and a few room lights. Some inverters can support larger loads with careful sequencing. Your installer will review starting surges for motors and the continuous wattage limits of the inverter. Cost sits higher but incentives soften it. The federal credit helps. Many utilities add their own rebates. Read recent cost ranges at SolarReviews. Pairing solar with a battery also cuts grid use during peak periods in many markets which may add bill savings when the grid is up.
Homeowners who want little maintenance, silence, and automatic failover often prefer this path. A portable generator can still play a role. Many battery inverters accept charging from a generator. That hybrid approach helps during long storms with little sun.
Runtime calculator basics
A simple formula helps you predict runtime on a portable power station. Runtime in hours equals battery capacity in watt hours divided by device load in watts multiplied by inverter efficiency. Many inverters run near eighty five percent efficiency with light to medium loads. Use that value for a rough estimate.
Example. A two thousand watt hour portable power station supports a fridge that averages one hundred watts over time. Two thousand divided by one hundred equals twenty. Multiply by zero point eight five. You get roughly seventeen hours of runtime before recharge. Real life varies based on fridge cycling and inverter performance. Add solar panels during daylight to stretch the runtime. Many vendor sites provide a built in runtime calculator as a quick check. You can learn the basic math at a resource like Lithium Battery Zone which shows common loads and expected runtimes.
Repeat the same process for any medical device or pump. Add a safety margin. Plan for less than the theoretical maximum. Cold weather can reduce battery output. Motors may draw more at start in cold temperatures. Test your setup in safe conditions before storm season.
Generator vs portable power station
The choice often comes down to surge power, runtime, noise, and safety. A generator can start heavy loads and run for days with a steady fuel plan. Maintenance becomes part of your routine. Carbon monoxide risk never goes away so placement and alarms matter for every run. A portable power station cannot match high surge demands without spending a lot more cash. It rewards you with silence and zero exhaust. It works indoors. The unit doubles as a UPS for electronics. Pair it with a small foldable solar array for extended outages. Many homes combine both. Run a generator outside for heavy lifting. Use a portable power station inside for lights, phones, laptops, and a small fridge at night.
Transfer gear costs
Expect interlock kits to land near one to four hundred dollars for parts plus labor. Manual transfer switches often price between three hundred and one thousand dollars plus labor and permits. Automatic transfer switches usually sit above one thousand five hundred dollars plus labor and permits. Contact a licensed electrician for a quote. Ask about a generator inlet, a concrete pad for standby, gas or propane connections, and any panel upgrades. Local code officials can tell you if interlocks are approved in your jurisdiction. A proper inspection gives peace of mind during storm season.
Maintenance checklist
Keep a simple checklist on the wall near your generator or battery.
For generators. Run the unit once a month under load. Check oil level before each run. Change oil at the interval specified by the maker or once a year. Inspect air and fuel filters. Keep spare spark plugs and a fresh fuel supply. Use fuel stabilizer for gasoline. Rotate gasoline stock several times per year. Store fuel in approved containers in a detached shed if possible. Never in living areas. Label each container with a date. Keep cords coiled and in good condition. Replace damaged cords right away.
For batteries. Update firmware as prompted by the app. Keep vents clear if the unit requires airflow. Verify state of charge. For a portable unit charge to the level the maker recommends for storage. Many models prefer mid pack storage to prolong life. Keep the unit in a cool dry space. Avoid full discharge during storage. Test your UPS function twice a year by simulating a brief outage during the day.
Frequently asked questions
Can I run a generator in my garage
No. Gasoline, diesel, and propane engines create carbon monoxide. Place a portable generator outside at least twenty feet from the home with the exhaust turned away from windows and vents. Read safety guidance at FEMA and NIST. Install carbon monoxide alarms on every level.
How do I size a generator for a fridge and a sump pump
Add the running watts for each device. Add the largest additional starting surge on top. A fridge often runs near four hundred watts with a short surge near one thousand six hundred. A sump pump can run near one thousand one hundred with a surge near three thousand. The combined running total sits near one thousand eight hundred. Add the extra surge above the pump running draw. That puts you near three thousand seven hundred. A unit rated near five thousand watts offers a cushion. Check your own labels and speak with an electrician before you buy.
Do I need a transfer switch
If you plan to power home circuits through your panel you need a transfer switch or a listed interlock. These devices prevent power from feeding into the grid. Backfeeding through a wall outlet is dangerous and illegal in many places. A transfer switch gives a safer, cleaner connection. Review options at PNNL BASC and a basic comparison at EcoFlow.
Is a home battery like a Powerwall worth it for outages
It can be. Households that want automatic backup without fuel or noise value the experience. A well sized battery with solar can ride through long events. Upfront cost runs higher than a portable generator. Incentives often help. See pricing context at SolarReviews. Decide based on your critical loads and outage history.
Can a portable power station run a CPAP
Many can. Check the inverter wattage and output type. Pure sine wave output is best for sensitive gear. Size the battery for overnight runtime with a margin for longer nights. Look for a UPS feature if you want instant switchover. Test the setup before you rely on it.
What fuel should I store for my generator
Choose based on your generator type and local rules. Gasoline is common yet it degrades. Add stabilizer and rotate stock often. Diesel stores well but needs care in cold climates. Propane stores cleanly in sealed cylinders. Follow local rules for storage location and container type. Speak with your fire marshal before adding a large tank.
Should I rent or buy
Rent when you need power for a short window. Buy if your home loses power often or if you rely on pumps or medical devices that must run without fail. Rentals cost less for a few days. Ownership pays off over years of repeated outages. See price ranges at RentalForce and HomeGuide.
One final thought from the restoration side. Water does not wait for the grid. A sump pump that stays on can save tens of thousands in damage. So can a powered dehumidifier during the first days after a leak. If you are weighing generator vs portable power station vs solar battery backup for outages, start with the loads that prevent damage first. Build a plan you can test in calm weather. If you want help with planning or remediation after a storm, our team is ready to respond.